A TIMELESS EXCURSION
The land of Sandalwood, Elephants and Coffee ! the Deccan heartland holds many topographical and natural wonders. As my hired car sped past the Western Ranges, I wondered at nature’s miracle. Thick foliage on both sides with small springs rising from small cracks and crevices on the rocks, interspersed at regular intervals. The road looked down menacingly down on the right. I was headed towards Hampi – my destination, a 350 Km drive from Bangalore, the ‘Silicon valley’ of Indian. Learing behind the hub ub of modern civilisation. I was heading for an excursion back in time. Hampi has been declared one of the world heritage Monuments of India. The 14th century capital city of the Hindu Kings called Vijaynagar Empire lies in the plateau, in the state of Karnataka. The ruins, excavated recently spread over an area of more than 26 Sq Kms, protected by the tempestuous Tungabhadra river in the north and by rocky granite ridges on the three sides. A terrain such as this was excellent for a Capital city that needed to be vigilant. It is believed that it may have been military shrewdness that made the god-conscious kings to settle for this fierce landscape. The city is said to have been founded in 1336 and later annexed by Muslim Kings in 1565. The heartbreak of 1565 defeat can still be seen in the ruins of the imperial city. Workmen seem to have fled abandoning their tools by the side of the river.
From a distance I could see the sentinels of time looming large in all their splendour. ‘We’ve arrived’, announced the guide, voicing my anxiety. Unable to quench my thirst for explanation we headed straight for the
largest temple in Hampi, the Virupaksha temple. The ride was dusty and dotted with potholes but it was worth the effort when we approached the majestic structure built on a long street, once the site of the famous Hampi Bazaar. The street runs between the temple and the foot of the Matanga hills, referred to as the Chariot street. It is a reminder of flourishing trade & commerce in this part of the Deccan. Now, under debris the paved road is being restored brick by brick. As I looked around, the old and new excavation sites, I realized that this 26 Sq Kms capital city waits to be discovered, along the banks of the river amidst the giant boulders, underneath the wild vegetation, there are secrets and treasures still unknown. As the sun dips behind the Matanga hills, I retire to my guest room, drowsy & fatigued, surrounded by visions of Kings & Queens, Courtmen & Courtesans, soon I was drooping into a dreamful sleep.
One of the most exciting aspects of visiting Hampi is the possibility of discovering something new, an excitement that one can share with the dedicated archaeologists who live on the site. Next morning, my last day in this historical place, I headed for ‘The Queen’s Bath’, it is a large square structure, bath the size of a room surrounded by arched corridors and projecting balconies, truly a bath for a queen, Near the Queen’s Bath is the ‘Hazara Rama Temple’ which was probably the kings private shrine. Carved horses, elephants, dancing girls & infantry adorns the walls of the structure.
The city is a town planner’s dream. The ‘sacred centre’ with its many temples lies along the South bank of the river Tungbhadra. It was mid afternoon, the August sun beating down on these glamourous marvels of architecture and I had no option but to start board the bus back for Bangalore, evening I will come for more – for every stone here has something to tell and teach. They beacon the traveler with their mystery.
(Fact File):
Easiest way to reach Hampi at Bangalore, book at any State Tourism Department counter for the special Hampi tour catch the night train to Hospet. A state Tourism bus will take you for a wash and breakfast at the nearest Hotel. Lunch will be served at Hampi. If you want to return the sameday (which is not recommended) then board the same bus back to Bangalore or you can book at the following hotels in Hampi for a longer stay:-
(a) Mallige Tourist Home.
(b) Inspection Bunglow, Hospet
(c) Hotel Vishwas.
(d) Hotel Mayura Vijaynagara
(e) Hampi Power Guest House
Bicycles are available for hire. Should one take a train the nearest railway station is 13 Kms away.
The best seasons for visit are October to March.
ENDS
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